The BEST of the French Riviera

The Best of the French Riviera
Thursday, November 6, 2008
The Best of the French Riviera

Patty and Dennis were invited to join the Virtuoso Education to Southern France, October 22 to Nov 3, 2008. We gladly accepted! We flew from Memphis to AMS (direct each evening), then to Nice where we were met by our on site for our transfer to the Four Seasons, Terre Blanche in the countryside.
It is hard to describe adequately one of the finest experiences in France one could imagine. It isn't even easy to say which of the l4 hotels we experiences were our favorites. They were ALL our favorites! Although each property is very unique and would appeal to a special client, we loved everyone we visited! So, perhaps we aren't hard to please when we are guests! This is the trip I will best remember because I was NOT anxious to come home! I could have stayed another two weeks or so.... Usually, I am so anxious to come home after a week or so, but NOT THIS TIME!
One of the best things about this trip for only 19 travelers was the easy pace, insider access to very special experiences which would be very hard to provide without local contacts on the Riviera. attention. Thankfully, I have access to wonderful insider experiences all over France.
We had an excellent guide in Grasse, Sephanie Cornill, to walk through shaded streets enjoying architectural treasures in the old square (Place du Petit Puy, Place Aux Herbes, Place Aux Aires), the outdoor market, the fountain and the 500 year old tree we all hugged for pictures to remember our little group and this special moment.
The perfume workshop in the laboratory/factory of Molinard in Grasse was a great experience, making our own perfume to take home with us just as "noses" do in the factory.
St. Paul de Vence is one of my favorite medeival villages which is about 50 minutes from Nice. Here we had Stephanie again take us through the Foundation Maight for our own personal tour and then the upperroad walk to the little village. The Maight, as you probably already know, features the contemporary art collection of the Maight family . It is a beautiful contemporary building and park featuring Calder and Miro sculptures. Lunch at the Hotel le Saint Paul was a lovely experience and a tour of their newly renovated suites revealed Relais and Chateaux quality and charm. We played a game of Petanque on the Place du Village (public square hang-out for locals) This game is fun with strategic tips for winning freely offered by the locals who are very serious about this past-time.
Vence, located just below the Chateau St. Martin, is a charming village with distinct and splendid panoramic views of the valleys and hills and water. Artists have always been attracted to Vence including, Dufy, Matisse, Chagall, Debuffet, Caryou, Arman, Anthony Mars, and D. H. Lawrence to mention a few.
Eze is a beautiful village on hillside of rock with very narrow roads, archways and restored stone houses, shady squares and ancient fountains. There is an exotic botanic garden in the village with an impressive collection of plants and cactuses and rare vegetation. The summit of Eze is 400 meters over the sea.
St. Jean-Cap-Ferrett/Villa Franche
We visited Villa Kerylos built in 1900 in the Belle-Epoch period which is a luxurious re-creation of an ancient Greek dwelling. Villa Ephrussi, built in 1905, reflected the exquisite taste of the Baroness de Rothchild who gave it ot the Academy of Fine Arts in 1934. Nice little gift. It is surrounded by 7 themed exotic gardens. Quite a treasure.
In Ville Franche we strolled through the picturesque narrow streets and saw the "Rue Obscure", a completely underground street, the citadel and the chapel built in 1557. We made a very exclusive and private visit for coffee and tidbits in Saint Jean to Saint Sospie, a villa and garden by the sea. This villa is privately owned still and was a home to the artist, Jean Cocteau, who decorated the walls of the villa with this original art. Priceless experience as this home will be given as a museum in the future, I'm sure.
In Monaco, we visited with our personal stylist-shopping guide the private apartment/studio of a famous fashion designer who does her own shows to see her collection and try on her fabulous collection of luxurious creations...fine fabrics, details never seen before. So fine.
In Monte Carlo, we had a walking tour of the Palace, the cathedral where we witnessed a wedding andlearned about the history of this very small principality made richly famous and attractive again with the wedding of Princess Grace and Prince Ranier. In the Palace, there is a beautiful, romantic painting of Princess Grace (in the center of the painting) and her family. It was a moving experience to see that painting of our storybook American Princess who died too young.
In Nice, we had a hands-on cooking experience in the restaurant L'Univers with Christian Plumail, one-star Michelin Chef. We visited with him to the market to pick the freshest produce and fish along with his sous chef who carried everything. Half the group opted for this experience and half the group went touring with Rosa Jackson to a local farm owned by a former a former Formula 1 race car driver to see his organic farm, olive trees, etc.
The cooks (that was US) filleted red snapper, pulled the bones out by hand, peeled and roasted the potatoes, shaped the dough for our bread, but best of all we made the citrus souffle for our dessert, one of the BEST dishes I experienced in all of France. And, it wasn't hard to do! Rosa does private cooking classes for 4 to 6 in her apartment and uses only the freshest, healthy foods for the experience. She is a food writer as well. So, this is an excellent way to experience a local person's way of life. We tired to have her spend a day with us on our last day, but she was off to Paris instead.
After our cooking for a couple of hours, the second group joined us to enjoy the meal. Christian is definitely a celebrity chef who appears on TV and radio. He was funny and joked around with his chefs in the kitchen. He told all of us that after we boiled the tomatoes for the sauce and put it in a colander, not to mash the tomatoes for the juice, because he wanted it to be light for the fish. Then, when he left the kitchen, the chef proceeded to mash the tomatoes. We said, "Oh no, don't mash!" He said, Christian doesn't know what he is talking about! Funny.
We visited the Chagall Museum actually designed by Chagall to hold his paintings and our guide told us of the themes (Bible) of his paintings and the significance of elements of his work.
In Cannes, home of the famous Film Festival, there is a beautiful bay, lovely beach and Old Town full of delicious sights, lovely yachts and sophisticated travelers, chic shops and pastel houses. Almost all the women bought the cutest little leather purses, all alike, but different colors to take home with us. We had our picture made with our purses at the Farewell dinner.
Our Farewell Dinner was at the Carlton Cannes which was beautifully decorated with roses, lillies and orchids, a banquet table so beautiful we felt like Princes and Princesses. We were entertained by a trio of musicians who played and sang very familiear melodies from our past...Misty, wedding tunes and Laura and wonderful jazz and Elvis music. This was an unbelievable experience and after many speeches, we said our farewells and promised to stay in touch. It was sad to leave our great little group!
Tips, outstanding features and contacts:
I lost an earring at the Four Seasons Terre Blance and reported it. They returned it to me in 5 minutes as someone had found it in the computer center, where I was checking emails. When I asked if I could purchase the adapter we had to borrow because ours didn't work, they said we could keep it with their compliments. Service above and beyond!
Rosa Jackson owns a company called Make it Perfect and it would be fun to have lunch with her in her apartment.
L'Univers is the Michelin Starred Restaurant owned by Christian Plumail and it is very close to Old Town Nice and the market. This was an excellent cooking experience. I would send clients there for lunch and/or dinner and tell them to order the Citrus Souffle for sure.
Chevre D Or is not for clients with trouble walking up and down cobblestone steps which are steep and dangerous. This is a lovely city but certainly not for everyone.

Taking a group to France with a lovely, luxurious VW multi-van is a pleasure to arrange.
There is access through our on-site for a private yacht for the day, week or month in Cannes.
Fragonard is a beautiful shop for quilts and fine linens and gifts all over France. I bought lovely embroidered napkins for my girls for Christmas and two gorgeous finely machine quilted throws.
Cab was 35 EU to the airport from Palais de la Mediterranee in Nice. (I think he overcharged us, but we had 4 bags returning instead of 2)
Virtuoso Hotel Summaries
Four Seasons Resort Provence at Terre Blanche This was our very first visit and I was blown away from the countryside and the fragrance of the herbs and flowers as you walk through the property. We had small intimate villas (private) here and they were lovely. The largest one in high season is about $13,000 EU per night...so guess I won't take my family there, but it was gorgeous. Still one of my favorite places because of the predictable quality of Four Seasons and it felt like home.

La Mas Candille This hotel is located in the village of Mougins, 7 KM from Cannes. It has a small road access and is a Relais and Chateaux property. We had a lovely spa visit here and it is a quiet property.
Hotel Imperial Garoupe This is a unique privately owned by M. Gilbert Irondelle who lives on the property and manages it. He opened the property just for us as they were closed for the season. This is a lovely more casual family place, not like the larger luxury hotels. It has 34 rooms and suites on two levels, walking distance to the sea and 20 minutes to Nice airport. It is located in Le Cap d'Antibes. I would put active young families here or couples who want a quieter, more intimate place. Such a cool guy who owns and runs this place!
InterContinental Carlton Cannes Gorgeous in the heart of Cannes, great service, gorgeous dinner for us, private beach with water sports. This hotel launches big parties for the Cannes Film Festival and premier car launches.
Hotel Le Saint Paul Always my favorite place. I have stayed here 3 times and keep going back! We had home-made mango caramels to die for after lunch.. They have a very small property with just l5 rooms and 4 suites. Relaix and Chateaux property that is just lovely and small and intimate with candies in the lobby by the fireplace. I usually send people here for stays after cruising.
Hotel Martinez located in Cannes with Big White face toward the Bay of Cannes. Large Hotel.
Chateau Saint-Martin and Spa Former residence of the Knight Templar, it is perched on a hilltop between Cannes and Nice (20 minutes from the airport in Nice). It is an historic address with olive trees, beautiful tapestries and Louis XV furnishings. We stayed in Suite 19 overlooking Vence. They have villas up on the hill, but I didn't care of them much as they were not easily accessible and they didn't have a kitchen, so all food had to be brought up. The bathrooms had a small heater which was very effective We had a lovely dinner here with American GM This property has a definitely French estate feel for more authentic stay as opposed to the Four Seasons (which I prefer).
Hotel Royal Riviera St. Jean Cap Ferrat Between Monaco and Nice. It is a Leading Hotel of the World, panoramic views of the sea, poolside grill and is 20 minutes from Monaco and 30 minuts to the airport. Closed during winter Nov 28 to Jan 16.
Chateau de la Chevre d'Or Of course, this is a favorite and our meal here was fabulous. But, beware of putting clients here who have trouble walking and standing. There are little rooms throughout the village that belong to the hotel, so it is possible to have a room where tourists pass under your window or beside your entryway. Charming. 2 STAR Michelin restaurant.

Hotel Hermitage In Monaco this is the sister property to Hotel de Paris and is just as lovely. It is just a few steps from the casino and has 280 bedrooms. They have a private beach club in season and your room key gives you entrance to the casinos and beach club and aqua fitness complex and 50% discount at the country club with 23 tennis courts and green fees.
Hotel de Paris This palatial hotel was built in l864 with the ambition to offer the best of the era. The wine cellar is touted as the best in the world where 250,000 bottles of wine rest waiting for someone to find them. That's probably a big job. We were hosted at the Grill restaurant overlooking Monte Carlo and we had a great experience here. Alain Ducasse's 2 star restaurant is here, too. Just the finest, elegant hotel for the well-healed and for easy access across the street to the Casino.
Hotel Metropole, Monte Carlo This hotel has a grand entrance and is decorated by Jacque Garcia in a style that is NOT to MY liking, but this seems to be "the place" for the young of France who love it for some reason. I much preferred the Hermitage. Under this hotel is a nice shopping center (owned in part by the owner of the Hotel Metropole) where you can get nice little sandwiches and salads (a nice break from all the fine dining), and the shops are very nice and reasonable.
Cap Estel This property is officially in Eze, but it sits on a peninsua in the Mediterranean. This property is the private estate of a wealthy (very) Russian who brings his family here in July for their stay. We stayed in a two bedroom suite with private balcony as large as our house in Memphis over looking 5 acres of land and large green between the hotel and the sea. The spa is beneath the swimming pool you can see from the balconies. The breakfast was a modest buffet, similar to a family offering, not a huge one acre layout as we saw in Nice. The General Manager arrived each morning in his black leather motorcycle gear with black boots and yellow trimmings and his BIG black hat. Definitelty dressing the part for his 20 minute ride to the hotel. The property is gated with access down an s-shaped road lined with gardens. I called down for coffee at 7 am to be brought up to us, as there are no coffee makers or irons and ironing boards in the rooms and was told breakfast was at 7:30. So, service is not geared for demanding tourists, but the property was so lovely I chalked it up to kind fate and remembered we were in a private home. The stay is enormously expensive here, but my choice of alllllllllllll we saw. I could probably be the room mother there!

I will be planning a girl/couples trip to France in Spring, 2010. Let me know if you would like to join us. Patty


Tell us of YOUR adventures
Scarlett Montesi, a favorite client, tells about her family's trip to the Outer Banks in a fully furnished, privately owned home. She says, "This time of year was perfect ( September ) because families were there who didn't have school-age children. We had 3 private pools practically to ourselves. The house was lovely and we rode bikes and enjoyed the island so much, just relaxing, and eating great seafood."

Privately owned, professionally decorated homes and villas is a favorite way to travel with family groups. There are many excellent choices available to rent for a unique and private get-away.

Adventures planned for 2009

Philadelphia Flower Show, Feb 28 - Deadline approaching
Kentucky Derby, May 1
Chelsea Flower Show, May 17
Sapphire Rivercruise on the Rhine and Danube, June 29
Baltic Seabourn Crise, August 20 Virtuoso Voyager Club Sailing
Crystal Fall Color Cruise, October 19 Virtuoso Voyager Club Sailing

Some of these adventures are being sponsored by non-profit organizations and a donation will be made to the organization of traveler's choice. Patty and Dennis will be hosting for Virtuoso on the cruises to the Baltic and to the Northeast USA to Montreal. We are hoping you will join us along with friends from around the USA. Do call us, if you have an interest. Patty and Dennis
Contact InformationPhone: 901-748-2966
3323 Windermere Lane
Memphis, TN 38125